Nestled on a peninsula, South Korea is hometo a myriad of coastal cities. While Busan often comes to mind as South Korea’s major southern seaside destination, Jinhae, a smaller city with a unique charm of its own, is just an hour’s drive away. From Seoul, it takes about three hours by KTX or SRT to Changwon Joongang station. From there, a 30-minute ride on city bus number 156 will bring you to Jinhae. The journey may feel a bit long without a direct train route, but Jinhae’s singular allure makes the journey worthwhile. Jinhae, located in the district of Changwon, Gyeongsangnam-do, was an independent city until 2010 when it merged with Masan and Changwon to create Changwon Special City. Despite this administrative change, Jinhae has retained its own distinct local identity. With its coastal location and long history as a naval base, Jinhae is a captivating small city where military significance and traces of modern history coexist. In recent years, Jinhae has moved beyond its image as a springtime tourist spot, reinventing itself as a city that embraces its modern history while seeking harmony between preservation and development. With this multifaceted identity, Jinhae is more than a scenic coastal city; it is a place where the past and present meet in everyday life.
Everyday life and the history of naval city Jinhae
Upon entering Jinhae, the first things that catch the eye are the sea and the sailors in their naval uniforms. Jinhae is a city where expansive blue waters and portside views are an inseparable part of daily life. In this way, Jinhae, which houses the nation’s only naval training center, serves as both the passage for every naval recruit and the strategic heart of the Republic of Korea Navy. At Bukwon Rotary stands the first statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin ever erected in Korea, which is designated as Modern Structure No. 1 of Changwon Special City. Behind it lies the Jinhae Naval Base Command, headquarters for the Navy’s main fleets as well as Marine Corps and special operations units. It is the symbolic core of Jinhae’s identity as a naval port city. For security reasons, the Jinhae Naval Base Command is generally closed to the public. However, during Jinhae’s signature spring festival, the “Gunhangje,” parts of the base are opened to the public, allowing civilians to visit certain facilities. The Naval Academy and the U.S. Navy Jinhae Unit Commander Fleet Activities Chinhae (CFAC) also open their gates, offering a close look at the campus, displayed warships, and maritime equipment. Visitors can enjoy a variety of events, including military band concerts and tours of naval facilities. At some piers, warship tours are even available with prior reservation. Although the accessible areas are limited, exploring a naval base is a rare and distinctive tourist experience that only Jinhae can offer.
Beyond the central base, Jinhae is dotted with naval statues throughout the city, each commemorating the country’s maritime history and heroes. At Jinhaeru, visitors can see a monument honoring Warrant Officer Han Jun-ho, who served on the Republic of Korea Ship Cheonan (PCC-772), along with other figures who have played significant roles in the Navy’s legacy. These statues and memorials serve as focal points for reflection, education, and civic pride.
Jinhae is not only a modern naval port city but also a place that carries the legacy of its development as a naval base during the Japanese colonial period. As Korea’s first modern planned city, Jinhae developed around Jinhae Station (National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 192), which was established in 1926. The city’s railway and port once formed a strategic hub for transporting Japanese troops and supplies during the colonial era. After liberation, it served passenger and defense logistics until services ended in 2015. Since then, it has been preserved as a modern cultural heritage. This history explains why the red-brick buildings and narrow alleys still preserve their colonial-era look. Modern buildings are clustered around the Jungwon Rotary, the heart of the old town, and Changwon Special City operates the “Jinhae Modern History and Culture Trail” tour course based on these sites. The course features buildings and relics of historical significance, including the statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, Jinhae Station, Jehwangsan Park, and several others.
One of Jinhae’s most popular attractions is Jehwangsan Park, known locally as “Topsan” (Tower Mountain), where Jinhae Tower stands. Visitors can climb 365 steps to reach the summit, but the monorail (3,000 won one-way for adults) offers a more leisurely ride with sweeping views of Jungwon Rotary below. Jinhae Tower was first built as a Japanese naval war monument celebrating victory in the Russo-Japanese War, modeled after the flagship’s conning tower and mast. Later demolished to erase imperial traces, it was rebuilt in 1967 with a new design symbolizing self-reliant national defense, inspired by a naval warship’s bridge. As a result, this new landmark was named the Jinhae Tower. On the second floor of Jinhae Tower is the Changwon City Jinhae Museum, where visitors can explore Jinhae’s culture and history free of charge. The museum traces the history of Jinhae from the Joseon dynasty to the present, with a special emphasis on the Japanese colonial period. Visitors can see photographs of the old Jinhae, detailed urban plans, and records of the Russo-Japanese War, alongside exhibits on Jinhae’s naval history and everyday life. From the seventh-floor observatory of Jinhae Tower, visitors can view the modern city and sea, taking in Jinhae’s unique panorama of apartment-lined streets merging with the distant naval port.
Traces of the naval city and vibrant presence
Today, Jinhae is moving beyond its past image as a naval port city, adding new charms as a modern tourist destination. With the summer heat fading and autumn breezes settling in, even a simple stroll along Jinhaeru Beach Park offers a memorable experience. The Jinhaeru was originally a structure located inside the naval base, restricting public access for many years. This changed when a section of the base was opened to civilians, allowing the pavilion to return to the public sphere. The area was developed into the current Jinhaeru Beach Park, a popular promenade along Jinhae Bay. The character ‘ru’ in Jinhaeru denotes a pavilion — a lofty, open structure built to embrace wide horizons.
As a coastal city, Jinhae offers many other scenic seaside promenades perfect for walking. One of them is Jinhae Marine Park. Located in Jinhae Myeong-dong on the small island of Eumji, the Jinhae Marine Park features coastal walking paths that provide scenic ocean views, making it ideal for a leisurely walk. Following the boardwalk, visitors can even reach Udo Island, adding a sense of adventure to the stroll. At the park’s entrance to the right, visitors can tour the retired Republic of Korea Ship Jinhae (PCC-766) for free. Once deployed for West Coast patrols and frontline engagements such as the First and Second Yeonpyeong Naval Battles, the ship was decommissioned in 2020. Inside, its rooms — such as the captain’s cabin and the gunnery officer’s room — are perfectly preserved, making you feel as though you have stepped into a movie set. Next to the ship, the Naval Battle History Hall allows you to explore the story of the Battle of Jinhae Bay, fought by Admiral Yi Sun-sin, the central figure of the Joseon dynasty’s navy. As Jinhae, then called Jepo, was the site of one of Joseon’s first officially designated ports for controlled trade with Japan and a key naval base, it contains several monuments honoring Admiral Yi Sun-sin, and this hall is one of them.
A short climb up the hill from the center leads to the Changwon Solar Tower. For 3,500 won per adult, visitors can reach the 27th-floor observatory, which offers panoramic views of Jinhae’s cityscape and the surrounding sea. For a more adventurous experience, Jinhae Marine Park offers an island sightseeing yacht tour for 20,000 won per adult. Cruising across the bay, visitors can learn about Jinhae’s history while taking in views of nearby islands and the Busan–Geoje Fixed Link. It allows visitors to witness the spectacular sight over Jinhae.
When thinking of autumn travel, most people picture mountains ablaze with fall foliage. This time, however, why not turn your eyes to the sea? In Jinhae, the crisp autumn breeze mingles with the harbor scenery, creating a charm unlike any other. As the leaves turn and the air cools, the tranquil rhythm of the waves offers a peaceful contrast to the season’s usual imagery. Remnants of military facilities and traces of modern history are scattered throughout the city, while uniformed personnel walking the streets create a scene rarely found elsewhere. Alongside this, seaside parks and walking trails complete the unique atmosphere of Jinhae Bay. Although it takes over three hours to reach from the Seoul metropolitan area and the city is not a widely known tourist destination, this very unfamiliarity becomes its greatest allure. With landscapes and stories that are found nowhere else, Jinhae promises to be a truly memorable getaway. So this fall, take the road less traveled and let the sea breeze of Jinhae show you a different kind of autumn. Visitors might just discover a side of Korea they never expected.