[464 Life as an Exchange Student]

   Going abroad during my studies was, like many others, a big dream of mine. After the long COVID-19 break, I finally managed to get accepted at my first-choice university. Seoul is a city I had always imagined as vibrant and colorful, a metropolis that never sleeps. That is exactly what awaited me.

Preparations in Germany

   I took care of everything I could well in advance. I knew I did not want to live in a dormitory from the beginning because I could not imagine sharing a room with someone. Through other student experiences, I learned about Goshitels, which are particularly popular among students.

   A bigger hurdle was the visa, as you first need to have all the complete documents from Dongguk University, which unfortunately tends to take a bit longer to arrive. Just before Christmas, I received the final documents and was able to submit the application in early January. I sent it by mail to the Korean consulate in Berlin. To my surprise, the approved visa came back in less than two weeks (also by mail—you just have to specify that you want it returned). In hindsight, I stressed a bit too much about this, which turned out to be unnecessary. The consulate repeatedly mentions on its website that it can take up to six weeks, so it is best not to submit the application at the last minute.

   I had already arranged my flight in November. It cost me a little over €900 with KLM. I decided to book a round trip with the option to reschedule, which I ended up using twice to extend my stay a bit longer. That cost me a total of €2. 

Bureaucracy in South Korea

1. Goshitel

   Goshitels are single rooms with an integrated bathroom. These are often less than 10 square meters, but it was sufficient for me. The kitchen and the washers/dryers are shared with all residents, which never posed a problem. On the contrary, the kitchens are well-equipped, making preparing meals quickly easy. Almost every Goshitel or Airbnb has a water dispenser that also provides boiling water in seconds, so you can quickly make things like ramen. There are many different Goshitels scattered throughout the city. One major advantage is the price, as these accommodations are usually quite affordable. In my case, the location was ideal, with many bus stations and four metro stations nearby. The rent was €340 per month. However, one downside was the tiny window, which faced a wall and made the room quite dark. Ventilation was also difficult since there were several restaurants below me. As a big fan of fresh air, this was quite disappointing. Depending on whether you plan to spend most of your time out exploring or visiting other cities, cheap accommodation can be great if you only need a place to sleep. You can find such rooms on websites like Goshitel.com. Goshitel was located right between the metro stations Jongno 3, Jonggak, Euljiro 3, and Euljiro 1. Nearby, there was a small, landscaped “river” where you could enjoy lunch or dinner. I can highly recommend the area.

2. Travel Insurance

   I took out travel health insurance with ADAC. The regulations surrounding this are a bit strange. Dongguk University requires you to have international health insurance from your home country at the beginning of the semester, but once you obtain the Alien Registration Card (ARC), you are automatically required to pay for Korean health insurance as well. I was able to get an exemption from the Korean health insurance, saving me over €100, since the ADAC travel insurance covered all the necessary points.

   To get the exemption, you need to either call the NHIS hotline or submit certain documents in person. Since I did not have a Korean SIM card, I went directly to the NHIS Center for Foreign Residents with a completed form (available on their website) and the official English translation of my German health insurance. I had requested this document from ADAC before my trip, and it was sent to me six weeks later. To be extra safe, I also translated the document into Korean using the Papago app and brought all the printed documents to the NHIS Center. The entire process was simple, did not require an appointment, and took less than 15 minutes. While it involves a bit of effort, it ultimately saves a lot of money, making it worth the hassle.

The application for the ARC was significantly more challenging.

3. Alien Registration Card (ARC)

   The ARC (Alien Registration Card) was something I had not anticipated at all. I assumed that my visa would be sufficient to study comfortably in South Korea. However, within 90 days of entering the country, you must apply for the ARC, as it is necessary for things like opening a bank account or ordering food via apps. The process can be quite frustrating, involving long waits, lots of paperwork, and multiple visits to the immigration office, which is always crowded.

   First, you have to wait for the official Letter of Enrollment from Dongguk University, which you will receive about a week after the semester starts. Once you have it, you will need to fill out several forms, which can be found on the Korean Immigration website, and schedule an online appointment. In my case, I could not book an appointment because all the slots were taken. It is often said that you may have to wait several weeks for a free slot.

   Instead of waiting, I went directly to my District Immigration Office without an appointment. Although signs everywhere warn that entry is only allowed with an online appointment, don’t be discouraged. I explained that I could not get an appointment and was given a waiting number. The experience was similar to waiting at a busy government office in Germany, like the Bürgerzentrum in Vaihingen. I waited for over four hours before I was called.

   Once your application is approved, the waiting time for the card, which looks like an ID card, is about four weeks. However, you can request a document from the Immigration Office 10-14 days later, which confirms that the ARC has been approved and that you are registered in the country with a resident number. This number is especially crucial if you plan to leave South Korea. Important: Never leave South Korea without this number. If the document or ARC has not been issued yet and you leave the country, your visa is automatically canceled, and you will have to reapply for it.

I recommend handling this as quickly as possible. Once the ARC is secured, many things become much easier.

Dongguk University

   Dongguk University is a Buddhist private school that is very popular in Seoul. The campus is filled with cafés, restaurants, and cats! Throughout the semester, small festivals are held regularly, but the two biggest celebrations are Buddha’s Birthday in mid-May and the university festival at the end of May. For Buddha’s Birthday, lanterns are hung everywhere, and several ceremonies are held, giving the university a unique and special atmosphere. During this year’s school festival, we had the chance to see Psy, Day6, and NewJeans, which provided a memorable end to the semester.

1. Friends

   During the orientation week at the beginning of the semester, you quickly get to know other exchange students. Through this, I found my “group,” with whom I spent a lot of time during my stay. Koreans are very busy during the semester and especially towards the end, so I recommend making friends with other exchange students. Since you are all here to experience Korean culture and life, it is wonderful to share this experience with new friends who are going through the same thing. Plus, exchange students generally have much more free time than the locals.

   However, it is also great to meet locals and see the city from their perspective! It is especially rewarding to discover lesser-known neighborhoods or restaurants that you might not have found on your own. But be aware that Korean students have a busy routine, with jobs and other commitments alongside their studies, which means they often have only a few free days. I had a few Korean friends with whom I went on trips or met for meals, karaoke, or park outings, but I am very glad I had a solid group of exchange students from the start. I spent about 90% of my time with this group.

2. Classes

   As I am pursuing a Master’s in AV3 at HdM, I was assigned to the Film Department at Dongguk University. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to attend Master’s lectures, as these were reserved exclusively for Korean students. Therefore, my main goal was to complete 15 ECTS/10 credits and pass my courses. I chose “American Dream and Capitalism,” a small class with only about 10 students. The course was very interesting and involved discussions about the American Dream and its realistic perspectives. Each week, we read a chapter from a book and wrote 1- 2-page journals. Additionally, we watched 4 films, which we also discussed.

   My second course was a film workshop that was quite challenging. Every week, we had to make a 3-minute film in a group, which often turned out less than stellar. We had to manage the equipment ourselves, and as an exchange student, borrowing from Dongguk was not an option. The course was further complicated by the fact that although it was in English, about 80% of the participants spoke little to no English.

   My third course was “English Through Drama,” which was essentially an acting course and was a lot of fun. Especially as an introvert, it was a great experience since you had to perform in front of the class and engage in situations you might normally avoid. We filmed a musical in groups and had various assignments where we had to act in front of the camera. The class was very respectful, and our professor was strict but never put us in uncomfortable situations. This course was challenging but enjoyable!

   Finally, I took “Classic Korean Film Screening,” where we watched a Korean classic film each week. This was a very relaxed course, where we had to submit a 2–3-page essay about one of the films for both the midterm and final exams. If you enjoy watching films and want to learn more about classic Korean cinema, this course is a great fit. Note: The classes are conducted in Korean, and the PDFs are in English, mainly because many Koreans are not very proficient in English. However, the professor is highly competent and speaks good English, so you can always ask questions.

Life in South Korea

   Now, for the fun part of my study abroad experience. Despite dealing with documents and appointments at the immigration office, my time in Seoul has been spectacular. Even after over three months, I was still discovering new things and places every day. Seoul is a city where consumerism is at the forefront. You are constantly surrounded by shops, karaoke bars, arcade houses, and cafes. Within a 50-meter radius of my accommodation, there were five cafes, three convenience stores, four karaoke bars, and a dozen restaurants. So, you will never be bored. If excessive consumption becomes overwhelming, there are plenty of tourist attractions to explore, from temples and observation decks on surrounding mountains to picnics along the Han River.

   With around 10 million inhabitants, Seoul offers a wide range of experiences, from the vibrant city life in various districts to the nature found around or even within the city. Dongguk University itself offers a peaceful retreat, and I recommend enjoying the view or sunset from one of the rooftops after a long day of classes.

1. Transport in Seoul

   Coming from Stuttgart to Korea, you will be initially overwhelmed by the variety of transportation options. If you live near a main road, you can count on a bus coming every 2-5 minutes, no matter where you want to go. The metro also runs regularly and, most importantly, on time, so you do not need to check the clock before heading out. I often just left, thinking, “A bus or metro will come soon,” and usually, I did not have to wait more than 5 minutes when I arrived at the stop.

   Despite the excellent transportation options, I ended up walking a lot. Sometimes, the crowds on public transport were overwhelming, or the streets were so congested that it felt like you were stuck in traffic. Moreover, walking is a lot of fun—you always find something new, whether it is an interesting new café, a small temple you had not discovered before, or a charming side alley.

   It is worth taking advantage of Seoul’s excellent train connections to explore other cities. For instance, the fastest KTX connection to Busan costs about €40, and a ticket to Gangneung, to the east, is around €20. Day trips to nearby areas make for a refreshing change!

2. Daily Life

   One recommendation for anyone in Seoul is to attend the baseball games, which take place six days a week. Baseball is the most popular sport in South Korea, and it is a lot of fun to watch the games and the shows in between. Traditionally, you can buy chicken and beer to enjoy during the game.

   Most tourist attractions are great to visit, especially during the week when there are fewer locals around. On weekends, there are often events and festivals near Gyeongbokgung Palace and City Hall. Unfortunately, there is not much information available online about these events, but it is worth checking out on a whim.

   My daily routine mainly consisted of handling university tasks, dining out with friends, and unwinding with them. Whether it was at a karaoke session, enjoying a café or tea after dinner, strolling through Hongdae or Chungmuro, or briefly playing arcade games, there was always something to do. I had Mondays and Fridays off, so I often used that time to explore attractions or take a short trip to nearby cities with the KTX.

A Few Helpful Tips:

•    Many people I met had trouble using credit cards at ATMs. It often was a hit or miss, so withdrawing cash might require some luck.

•    Korean cuisine is quite meat-heavy and often very spicy. Dishes may not always indicate the presence of meat, so it is best to ask beforehand. It is also a good idea to get used to eating spicy food before your trip.

•    Soju is incredibly cheap in supermarkets, costing about the same as a bottle of sparkling water.

•    It is advisable to wear a mask or avoid going outside when there are high levels of fine dust coming from China. Sometimes, there are alerts for this.

•    Summers are very hot, and winters are very cold. In March, temperatures can still drop below freezing, so bring warm clothing.

•    A hostel employee mentioned that ATMs in banks usually have lower fees compared to those found outside.

•    For managing the ARC (Alien Registration Card), the HireVisa website can be used. Many friends who used this service were dissatisfied due to rejected documents, slow responses to inquiries, and additional fees. Some ended up paying 70-80€ extra and faced prolonged issues.

•    Finding a cheap gym is challenging. Monthly memberships are typically around 70€. After a long search, I found a small, unassuming gym that cost 7€ per day. Despite its size, I was satisfied with the equipment and the lack of crowds. The gym, 1RM Gym, is located right next to the Jongno 3 metro station.

•    If you have a driver’s license, it is useful to get an international driver’s permit in Germany before traveling. This will make it easier to drive in places like Jeju Island, where driving is on the right side of the road. I did not have an international permit and regretted it, as public transportation in smaller cities can be quite sporadic.