[462 Special Edition] Exploring the Magic and Spirit of Barcelona During Christmas Season

   “Feliz Navidad! (Merry Christmas)” Warm greetings filled the winter air, and the moment echoed with the beloved carol of the same name, marking the beginning of Spain shining brighter than ever. Winter in Spain is a time of magical festivities. Streets adorned with dazzling lights and the vividly animated Christmas nativity scenes, Belenes, completed the exotic landscape. In the winter of 2023, reporters from the Dongguk Post had the opportunity to deeply explore Barcelona’s end-of-year and family culture as part of a collaborative expedition by the overseas coverage of Dongguk Media Center. On the first day of the International Politics Theory class in the second semester, the exchange students from Barcelona, Emma and Eva were in my group. I immediately asked if it would be okay to visit their home for our report, and thankfully, Emma agreed without any hesitation. Consequently, our team stayed in Barcelona from December 31st to January 4th, visiting Emma’s home in the peaceful village of Cardedeu on the last day of our report. Taking a train about 40 minutes from downtown Barcelona, we arrived in a small town. Encountering familiar faces in a strange place brought a world of brightness. Stepping into Emma’s house, we were enveloped in the richness and warmth of a Spanish Christmas.

Christmas in Barcelona begins with finding the Caganer in the Pesebre

   Upon entering Emma’s home, what caught our eyes were the cute Christmas tree and decorations. Emma lived with her parents and siblings in a large family, and the house was filled with a variety of Christmas-related items. “Christmas celebration in Barcelona generally starts in the first week of December, and from this time, families begin to beautifully decorate their homes,” Emma explained. One of the most prominent Christmas traditions of Spain is making “Pesebre,” miniature villages depicting the birth of Jesus Christ. Typically, Pesebre includes various village scenes, rivers, mountains, and inhabitants engaging in their daily routines, such as a girl going after chickens and two elderly women taking a walk. “Also, Caganer is one of these villagers.”

   The “Caganer,” meaning the pooping man, is one of Barcelona’s unique and traditional Christmas symbols. “You do not want to see someone pooping, right? So, you need to hide it!” The Caganer is usually placed in a hidden corner within the Pesebre, and finding this figure during Christmas provides joyous entertainment for families. The Caganer wears a traditional Catalan hat, called Barretina, indicating that this attire was a common part of the local males’ winter clothing. Beside this was another Pesebre depicting the legend of the Three Kings. “Three wise men, or three kings, came from very different parts of the world, and it is said that all saw the star in the night sky. The star symbolizes the birth of Jesus, and they have to follow the star to reach Jesus.” They embarked on a journey riding camels to find Jesus, adorned with splendid gifts. It affirms that the Pessebre is indeed a miniature version of a Spanish Christmas culture.

Experience Barcelona’s family culture and traditions with Caga Tió

   Barcelona’s Christmas season includes the unique tradition of “Caga Tió,” or the “pooping log.” “Caga” means poop, and “Tió” means a log. “Sometimes, it is very funny to explain this tradition to foreigners. It sounds a bit stupid, but I find it so funny,” Emma nodded. The tradition of Caga Tió begins with families decorating a small wooden log or doll by adding a face and two legs to make it appear as a living being. “It has a cute face and looks magical. It appears in December! Basically, it comes to your house, and you have to feed it.” Every night, children feed the log with fruits, nuts, or candies, believing this will make the Tió “poop” gifts on Christmas Eve. On Christmas Eve, families traditionally sing songs while gently hitting the Tió. This singing and action are believed to induce the Tió to “poop” out gifts.

   The lyrics of the song usually encourage the Tió to release more gifts and vary slightly in each household, reflecting individual family traditions and stories. “TiÓ, TiÓ, CAGA TURRÓ,” our team began to tap the Tió lightly with sticks. “TURRÓ” refers to a traditional Spanish treat, Turrón. “Un (One), Dos (Two), Tres (Three), CAGA TiÓ!” At the end, we shouted together. “It is a bit aggressive, right?” Emma laughed. “But it is in a loving way.” When Eva made a tender gesture of embracing the Tió, everyone laughed. The climax of the custom is when the children lift the blanket and find gifts underneath the Tió. These gifts are considered to have been “pooped” by the Tió and typically include candies, small toys, or traditional Christmas treats like Turrón. The most common snack, Turrón, made of nuts such as almonds, is hard and savory. The children’s favorite Turrón is typically chocolate flavored, a relatively recent addition to the traditional flavors. Through this custom, children learn the joy of sharing, the value of anticipation and waiting, and the importance of spending time with family.

Long-lasting Christmas in Spain with vibrant festivities was special

   “Noche Buena,” or Christmas Eve, is when families gather for a special meal, comprising traditional Spanish dishes and local delicacies. Some families begin this evening by attending a church Mass, emphasizing the holiday’s religious significance. In addition, “Noche Vieja,” or New Year’s Eve, is when families and friends come together to conclude the year and welcome the new one. There is a tradition across Spain to eat twelve grapes at the stroke of midnight, aligning with the twelve bell chimes. Each grape represents an upcoming month of the new year, and it is believed that eating them in sync with the chimes will bring health and luck. Recently, a new trend of eating grapes under the table has emerged. “This is something that young people do, which is eating grapes under the table,” Emma explained. “I did it!” Eva added. A modern twist among the youth involves eating grapes under the table, a new trend popularized through social media like TikTok, aimed primarily at finding love.

   Between December 24th, Noche Buena, and January 6th, the Day of the Three Kings, various festivals and events take place across Spain, including Barcelona. Families and friends visit each other during this period to share the festive joy. Notably, on January 1st, New Year’s Day, most Spanish families prepare a meal, akin to another special gathering reinforcing family bonds. “As you can see, Christmas time is all about family. It is about being together and eating together.” The following day at lunch, families come together to eat “Roscon,” a large, donut-shaped cake for dessert. Hidden inside this cake is a small king or bean figurine; finding the king means being treated like royalty for the day, while finding the bean entails paying for the cake. Moreover, on January 6th, Spain celebrates the Day of the Three Kings, when children receive gifts, reflecting the tale of the three kings’ gifts to Jesus. Despite Santa Claus’s growing popularity, this day remains vital for Spanish gift-giving traditions, highlighting Spain’s strong family values and joyous start to the new year.

   Within an atmosphere that felt like stepping into a fairy tale, Spain’s unique Christmas provided unforgettable memories of the holiday season. Barcelona at the end of December and the beginning of January was filled with shining colors and rich scents. I, too, experienced this magical ambiance on the night of December 31st, eating twelve grapes in sync with the countdown under a drone show and fireworks at Catalonia Square. Amidst families and couples embracing each other and saying “Feliz Año Nuevo! (Happy New Year),” I could feel the community’s solidarity. It was evident how Spain cherishes its extended Christmas celebration, strengthening family bonds and passing traditions across generations. Above all, it was incredibly fortunate to have met Emma and Eva through a serendipitous connection from Dongguk University, spanning the distance of 9,604 kilometers from Seoul to Barcelona. After concluding our report, I had the chance to meet Emma’s grandfather who lives on the floor below her house. We exchanged warm handshakes and smiles, and I was touched by his hospitality towards us, strangers, remind me a picture of a harmonious family. I extend my gratitude to Emma and Eva for providing such wonderful memories within the space of a home, where a country’s culture and values are most vividly reflected. Gracias!